• Altitude: 6,342m
  • Duration: 6 Days
  • Physical Rating: 4Technical

One of the most demanding climbs in the Cordillera Real, both physically and technically, this should only be attempted by those in very good shape and with a reasonable amount of experience on the ice. Despite this, it is a spectacular climb and Bolivian Mountains is one of the few agencies in Bolivia which can offer you this mountain.



A full day in vehicle. Starting early from La Paz, we travel down into the valley of Sorata. After lunch in Sorata we will continue to the community of Ancoma, where we will set our first camp (4,200m).


After breakfast we begin a short trek to our second camp spot, in an area known as Aguas Calientes (4,850m). During these three hours, on a clear day, we are able to appreciate the majestic Illampu massif.


Today we will reach the high camp, at 5,600m. The route begins over a moraine and other rocky areas until we reach the start of the glacier. The camp site is a short distance along the length of the glaciar, (approx 5 hours in total).


The summit. After a hearty breakfast, we will begin our ascent to the summit, which will take around six hours. The return will be along the same route to the high camp.


Return down to Aguas Calientes.


Trek back to Ancoma and return by vehicle to La Paz.

Did you know?

Although it is not the highest in the country. Illampu is considered by the indigenous communities of Bolivia as the most important of the mountain gods. It is the furthest northern peak in the Cordillera Real and, according to indigenous folklore, is known as the king of the mountains, reigning over the others together with his queen mount Illimani, the southernmost mountain in the range.

I was impressed at how professional Bolivian Mountains was, looking at some of the other guides on the route this was in stark contrast! If I manage to get some more time off work I'll use you again to try some of the other peaks.
Chris McFaul, Huayna Potosí April 2005

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